Transplanting

Handling: It is very important to properly unload and handle trees. When buying trees that have been dug with a tree spade, handle the tree by the wire basket, most of the time there will be ropes tide to the basket for proper lifting of the trees. Most palm trees can be handled by the trunk of the palm, however certain types of palms like "large" Windmill and Needle palms can get cosmetic damage to the trunk, if strapped up and lifted by machinery. An alternative method to handling delicate palms is by  lifting the palm from under the rootballs. It is also very important that the bud of the palm not get broke, this is where the new emerging leaves appear. Strap the tree high enough on the trunk so when lifted the palm is hanging straight up. Many people damage and kill palms before they even get the new palm tree to the hole! Many times inexperienced workers will strap the palm to low, and when the palm is lifted, the top of the palm where the 'bud" or "heart" is comes crashing down and slams hard against the trailer or ground, and possibly killing the palm by breaking the bud. A good illustration of this is the well known effects of hurricane force winds breaking the bud. Boarding "supporting" the bud before a hurricane is much like boarding windows before the storm arrives, this is done by using 4x4 lumber and fastening the 4x4 to the trunk and extending it straight up and fastening it to the to the top of the tree, keeping it from swaying so hard.

Transplanting Depth: It is very important not to transplant trees any deeper than they were originally grown, and new research even suggests planting the tree 5-10% above grade and filling in with mulch. The root initiation zone at the base of the trunk is extremely sensitive in this regard, and planting too deeply will cause root suffocation, nutritional deficiencies, root rot disease and, frequently, loss of the tree. The decline of deeply planted trees may take several years to become apparent, especially on very well-drained soils, but it can only be reversed by removing the backfill from the suffocated root initiation zone or replanting the tree. Planting in compacted soil can also lead to very slow root development. If good soil is not present where you are planting, (such as clay or rock) you should dig the hole out 2-4 feet larger than needed, and bring in good potting soil, or loose sand mix. All air pockets should be tamped out of the backfill as the planting hole is filled.

Fertilizing Palms

Frequency: The frequency with which landscape palms need to be fertilzed depends greatly on the type of soil in which they are planted and the amount of rainfall (or irrigation) that they will recieve. Palms planted in poor,shallow soils coupled with heavy rainfall (or irrigation) during the growing season results in a very low natural reservoir of essential plant nutrients. Mature palms 10' and taller should recieve a complete granular palm fertilizer three to four times a year at a rate of 5-8 lbs each application. Dropping below a minimum of two applications, even for the most budget conscious maintenance shedules, is not recommended. In soils of higher quality, the nutrient holding capacity of these soils should allow less frequent application of fertilzer. Elsewhere, palms planted in loamy, organic, or clay based soils may also get by with less fertilzer. Use a Palm fertilizer containing additional magnesium and a complete micronutrient amendment. Nitrogen and Potassium rates in the formation should be equivalent, and some or all of both elements should be available in slow release form.

Where to apply: Dry, granular fertilizers should be broadcast or banded under the canopy of the palm, but should not be placed up against the trunk where newley emerging roots may be injured. If granular fertilizers will be used in conjunction with drip irrigation systems, the fertilizer should be banded where the water can wash in the fertilizer.

Reasonable Formula: A reasonable formula to use is 1/2 lbs of fertilizer per 2 feet of overall height.